She Rode an Overnight Bus Across Europe; It Was Better Than the Train

My bus from Amsterdam Sloterdijk bus station was scheduled to depart at 8 p.m., and the ticket noted that passengers should arrive 10 minutes early. I gave myself far too much time to get there from Amsterdam Central Station, so I had a very cold 20-minute wait on the concourse.

The station had no amenities, so I was glad I’d eaten dinner and picked up snacks and water in advance. Unlike a train or plane, there’s almost zero pre-departure admin, so even that 10-minute window is generous.

Once the bus had arrived and my ticket had been scanned, I was on board and ready to roll in seconds. Plus, because we were traveling through the Schengen Area, a border-free travel zone comprising 29 European countries, there were no internal border passport checks, so no interruptions.

While I aspire to be a minimalist traveler, limited baggage allowance is my worst nightmare, so I was pleased I could bring a large suitcase and a carry-on bag for no extra cost.

There are 21 seats on the bus — 18 up top and three on the bottom — and I was seated at the front of the top deck.

I was blown away by how much room I had. As well as overhead shelving, there was plenty of space to leave my bag, shoes, and assortment of belongings on the carpeted floor.

On a seated night bus or train, I’d never dream of changing into proper PJs. I just board in something comfortable and hope for decent bathrooms on the other side so I can freshen up.

Not on this bus.

The hotel-grade bathroom was roomy, well-lit, and plush enough for a nighttime routine — yes, even skincare. There was space to rest my toiletries bag, change, and brush my teeth, all in motion. Bonus points for the fancy hand soap.

I’d eaten a proper meal before boarding, but there was also a kiosk stocked with Swiss snacks: chips, cookies, and energy bars. It was all reasonably priced and could be paid for via a QR code.

My delicious Cailler hazelnut chocolate was less than $5. I also had many refills of herbal tea from the hot drink station. We all received a bottle of water in our kit bag, and there was a freshwater tap.

Although it was too early for me to have a coffee when we pulled into Zurich bus station, a Nespresso machine and pods were available too.

After I settled in and streamed a show on my iPad, I touched a button to have the seat glide from upright to fully flat in around 30 seconds.

For safety, I had to strap my feet into a mesh sling clipped to the seat. It sounds fiddly, but I forgot it was there once I’d settled down.

The high sides helped block out fellow travelers, and I was given a bottom sheet, pillow, and duvet, with extras available from the steward. There’s also USB and standard electrical outlets, as well as individual reading lights.

With my earplugs in, lulled by the dimmed purple lighting and gentle road hum, I was asleep by 11 p.m. and woke just after 6 a.m., feeling cocooned and rested.

The same journey by train would have cost around $130, or more if booked at the last minute, versus Twiliner’s fixed price of €160, or $185.

Most night buses just have a driver, who swaps out at rest stops.

On the ride, we had a customer steward on hand. He showed me to my seat, explained the safety features, and answered passengers’ questions throughout.

We arrived in Zurich almost 1.5 hours early, and he gently woke passengers, so we had time to dress and gather our things.

During the day, the train would have taken 8 hours; overnight, closer to 11, often requiring changes. That means broken sleep and constant checks to make sure you’re on the right platform, with the right ticket, and with all your belongings.

I’ll always love trains, but I’d happily book this bus again.