These 5 Things About Hong Kong Surprised Me on My First Visit

• To kick off 2025, Erin Liam visited Hong Kong for the first time in January.
• Having grown up in Singapore, she had expected the cities to be similar.
• However, she was surprised by several ways of life, including sharing tables with strangers.

When I told my family I was planning a trip to Hong Kong, they responded, “Why? Isn’t Hong Kong similar to Singapore?”

In some ways, they are right. Hong Kong and Singapore — where I grew up — are often compared to one another. Both cities have high population densities, serve as global financial hubs, and are known for being expensive.

But on a four-day solo trip there in January, I was surprised to see how different the cities were.

1. Sharing tables with strangers

On my first night, I settled into a cozy beef noodle restaurant and was mid-slurp when a middle-aged man sat across from me at my table. Without even a glance in my direction, he ordered his dish and tucked in.

Although initially confused, I learned that table sharing, known as dap toi, is a dining norm in the city. The practice isn’t meant to be intrusive, nor is it an invitation to make conversation. It simply arises from the lack of space and the need for efficiency.

It makes sense. Hong Kong, a city slightly smaller than Rome, has a population of around 7.5 million, per its mid-2024 census. Yet, government data from 2018 showed that only about 24% of land area is built-up. The result is a densely populated city where space is a luxury.

2. Speaking up on minibuses

Hong Kong is not a city for the soft-spoken. I learned the hard way that you must speak up to get what you want — on minibuses, at least. Also known as public light buses, minibuses provide an efficient mode of transportation to areas that Hong Kong’s standard buses may not easily reach.

On route to the start of a hiking trail to Braemer Hill Peak, a spot to catch sunset views of the city, I took a minibus to avoid the 1-mile climb up. When the minibus reached my stop, however, it simply zoomed past and traveled back down.

As it turned out, not all minibuses have “stop” buttons that I was familiar with. Instead, passengers alert the bus driver when they want to get off by saying “yau lok,” which means to stop the bus in Cantonese. It was, not surprisingly, a daunting task for an introvert.

On that day, I resigned myself to walking back up the hill and avoided minibuses for the rest of the trip.

3. French toast is not breakfast

If there’s one thing that fueled my desire to visit Hong Kong, it’s the food. The city is a foodie’s dream, with 79 Michelin-starred restaurants in 2024. Local cafés, or cha chaan tengs, and open-air food stalls, or dai pai dongs, are also mainstays of the food scene.

I was eager to try Hong Kong-style French toast. Unlike French toast in the US — typically pan-fried and served with maple syrup — Hong Kong-style French toast is usually stuffed with peanut butter, deep-fried, then topped with condensed milk. The dish was introduced to Hong Kong during British colonial times and evolved to adapt to local tastes and ingredients.

When I attempted to order the treat for breakfast, however, the waiter wagged her finger and pointed to another menu — the afternoon tea menu. French toast, it seems, is considered a tea-time snack that is usually enjoyed later in the day. Instead, I settled for macaroni soup for breakfast. Funnily, it was something I would consider more of a lunch dish.

The next afternoon, I returned to a nearby cha chaan teng to attempt to order the dish again — only to be served french fries due to miscommunication.

4. Lines are everywhere, but they usually move quickly

On my first day, I walked miles to check out Hong Kong’s famous eateries, only to give up upon seeing the long lines. But when I took a chance on one, I was surprised by how quickly it moved. As a city that prioritizes efficiency and speed, people eat and leave quickly, so lines move fast.

As a solo diner, I saw the benefits of dap toi. It was like joining a single-rider line at Disneyland, and I soon got used to sharing tables with strangers in crowded eateries.

Looking back, I could have enjoyed egg tarts and steamed rice rolls if I had been a little more patient.

5. Everything moves at twice the speed

When I met up with a local friend for dinner, she finished a plate of roasted pork rice within minutes. “You’re done already?” I asked in amusement. “Hong Kong speed,” she simply replied.

Indeed, everything moves quickly in Hong Kong. In busy districts like Mong Kok and Central, the Mass Transit Railway train arrives every other minute. People walk as if they are on a mission, and waiters almost expect you to know what to order the moment you sit down.

I was used to the fast pace of life in Singapore and assumed Hong Kong would match it. Instead, it surpassed my expectations and, at times, felt jarring. But, it was the bustling energy that made the city feel truly alive.

I’ll be back again. Next time, I’ll make sure to order my French toast correctly.