When people ask why I settled in the Aosta Valley, they often assume I fell in love with a local or that I’m a ski bum. What actually happened was I fell in love with the region.
I first discovered Courmayeur, my new hometown, in 2018. I had just turned 40, my marriage had ended, and I’d left my job in Edinburgh.
Unmoored, exhausted, and heartbroken, I knew I needed to step outside my comfort zone. An Italian road trip with my rescue dog, Annie, felt like the perfect way to shake things up.
My mom joined us for the first leg. An avid hiker, she suggested we stop for lunch in her favorite mountain town in the Italian Alps. As much as I loved the relaxed, authentic vibe, I never imagined that eight years later, I’d be living here year-round.
Every time I returned to Courmayeur, it felt like coming home
Gemma Johnstone
I spent the rest of my road trip exploring Italy, then headed back up north and spontaneously stopped in Courmayeur again for a quick visit.
A few days turned into two weeks — and then turned into a few months, after I found a short-term, low-season rental and decided to stick around. Then, I extended my three-month lease to a yearlong one.
The peace, blue skies, and stunning scenery kept me here. I loved that, within minutes of stepping outside on a daily dog walk, I could be immersed in secluded nature with breathtaking views.
Plus, despite being surrounded by tranquil trails, the town is conveniently well-connected. It’s just a few hours away from Milan, Turin, and Geneva, making it easy for my much-missed friends and family to visit and for me to explore other parts of Europe.
Almost a year into my stay in Courmayeur, I took a short trip back to Scotland. I still wasn’t sure where I wanted to settle down long-term.
However, when I drove back into Courmayeur, I immediately felt such an overwhelming sense of being home that I began the process of securing residency.
Italian Alpine life comes with challenges no one posts about
Gemma Johnstone
During that first year, I realized that living in this picture-postcard Alpine resort year-round is very different from vacationing here.
Courmayeur’s population, which is typically around 3,000, swells significantly during the peak ski and summer seasons, and living in a tourist destination has its downsides. I don’t love the traffic-clogging narrow lanes, and the scarcity and high cost of apartment rentals.
During the low season, the town feels deserted. Suddenly, there are swaths of shuttered second-home chalets and closed restaurants. It’s a change of pace that I appreciate, but for those who thrive in a bustling environment, it could feel jarring.
Then there’s the language barrier. My Italian has been embarrassingly slow to improve, and even basic interactions felt intimidating to begin with.
Locals were always polite and helpful — and many working in the tourism industry speak English — but I understandably had to prove myself before I was fully embraced by the close-knit mountain community.
The cost of living is also a consideration; my winter energy bills, for instance, are much higher than I was used to in Scotland. I’m lucky to work from home, but I know seasonal workers who have struggled with long hours, limited days off, and low pay.
Living here is still so worth it for me
Gemma Johnstone
Despite the challenges, I don’t regret my decision to stay in Courmayeur.
Living here has confirmed how much I value nature, community, and calmness over status or city life. Moving doesn’t solve every problem, of course, but the right place gave me the space I needed to work through mine.
I find it grounding to live where the seasons dictate the rhythm of life. Of course, there’s skiing in the winter, but in the spring and fall, I help my neighbors with potato and apple harvests. In the summer, I hike to mountain refuges and swim in glacial lakes.
My community here is a mix of lifelong locals and a few expats, and they’ve all expanded my worldview. I admire the dedication and passion of hotel workers, lift operators, and mountain guides, and I love watching burned-out city slickers rediscover their joy for life here.
I’ve learned that life in the mountains of Italy can bring gorgeous nature, a slower pace, and a great community. However, it also requires a pile of patience, flexibility, and honesty about your reasons for moving here. I’ve seen people relocate here — and leave — when their expectations didn’t match the reality.
For me, though, staying in Courmayeur was just what I needed. Life here isn’t perfect, but every time I step onto a mountain trail above the village with my dog, I feel a steady, uncomplicated contentment.
