Skipped Christmas at Home for My Dream Trip to Ireland; Worth It

Last year, I moved from New Jersey to Spain.

Instead of flying home for the holidays, I wanted to experience something new that would hopefully be a salve to the constant political disappointment I’ve been feeling as a Black woman living in the country. As much as I love my family, being in the US stresses me out.

Though Barcelona (my current city) comes alive during December with Christmas markets, festive lights, and a wave of tourists, I was craving greenery, the tranquility of nature, and maybe a sprinkle of luxury (at least for a few days).

I knew I’d find that in Ireland, which I’ve loved every time I’ve visited. Less than a month before Christmas, I did some last-minute planning to make my dream trip a reality.

I set my sights on County Cork

I’ve been to Ireland a few times, and multiple people I’ve met abroad have encouraged me to visit West Cork.

The somewhat underrated foodie destination is covered in farmland and remnants of Ireland’s once-abundant temperate rainforests.

My curiosity was fully piqued, so I booked an extended weekend at Liss Ard Estate in the town of Skibbereen.

The luxurious estate was a bit of a splurge for me — the cheapest suites start at about 160 euros, or about $186, a night — but I considered it a Christmas gift to myself.

The area’s natural views were straight out of a movie

I hoped to spend time in nature during my trip, but I wasn’t expecting to see greenery similar to that of “Jurassic Park” in the Irish countryside in the winter.

I spent most of my time in West Cork wandering the Irish Sky Garden, which James Turrell created in the 1990s.

I didn’t even know about the internationally renowned masterpiece of interactive natural art when I booked my stay, but it’s safe to say I was forever changed by the beautiful installation.

The Sky Garden is basically just a giant concave oval. When standing inside it, the sounds of nature are amplified, and the sky becomes a massive portrait.

As I lay on the rock slab, staring at the sky and hearing blades of grass shuffle in the breeze, I was reminded how wonderful it is to just be present in the moment.

I returned to an old haunt for Christmas Day

I loved the solitude of West Cork, but I planned on spending Christmas Day in Dublin — more specifically, at Jacobs Inn.

I’ve stayed in this hostel every time I’ve visited Dublin. As an avid solo traveler, I rarely find accommodations that organically create the feeling of family among strangers, but this place does it for me every time.

Immediately after entering and putting my bags in storage, I met a travel buddy at the bar who mildly peer-pressured me into going to a reggaeton club (something I didn’t even know existed in Dublin).

We had a blast.

There was plenty to do in the capital city

Though Dublin was crowded with a wave of holiday tourists and locals gathering with friends and family, I was still able to carve out dedicated time to rest, regroup, and explore the city at my own pace.

Two of my favorite adventures were finding The Little Pig Speakeasy and visiting the city’s museums.

The four properties of the National Museum of Ireland and the National Gallery are all free to the public, so I took my time wandering through as many exhibits as I could.

The speakeasy was the most authentic-feeling one I’ve been to in years.

To enter, my hostel buddy and I had to find a pay phone, type in three numbers, say a code we had obtained from a local store owner, enter a trick wall, and then follow the neon pig. The tasty cocktails were worth the effort we made getting into the bar.

My trip ended up being the perfect way to spend Christmas

Aside from talking to my mom on Christmas Day, everything about this holiday was new to me.

At times, it was a bit overwhelming. But not knowing what each day would bring during a season that’s usually steeped in tradition was also exciting.

Whether I return to Ireland next Christmas or set off to another country, I’m excited to make solo travel my new holiday tradition.

This story was originally published on January 6, 2025, and most recently updated on December 5, 2025.